Listen to what the car does
Turn the key or press the start button once and pay attention. The sound, or lack of it, narrows the problem quickly. Note it down so you can describe it to a mechanic.
- Rapid clicking, dim dash lights: usually a weak or dead battery, or a loose or corroded battery connection.
- One loud click, then nothing: often a starter or starter connection problem, though a very weak battery can do it too.
- No sound and no dash lights: a completely dead battery, a main connection or a major electrical issue.
- Dash lights work but nothing happens: possible shifter position, brake switch, ignition, key or security system issue.
- Engine cranks normally but will not start: usually fuel delivery, ignition or a sensor problem.
- Starts, then dies right away: can be a security immobilizer, fuel or idle control problem.
Simple checks you can safely do
These checks take no tools and do not involve working under the vehicle. They solve more no-starts than you might expect.
- Make sure an automatic is fully in Park (try shifting to Neutral and starting). With a manual, press the clutch all the way.
- Press the brake pedal firmly when using a push-button start.
- If the key will not turn, gently move the steering wheel side to side while turning the key to release the steering lock.
- For a push-button start, try a spare fob or hold the fob right against the start button; a weak fob battery is a common cause.
- Look at the battery terminals. White or green crust or a loose clamp can stop a car from starting.
- Check the fuel gauge. It sounds obvious, but a faulty gauge or a very low tank on a slope can cause a no-start.
Jump starting safely
If the signs point to a weak battery, a jump start may get you going. Follow the jump-starting steps in your owner's manual, since some vehicles have remote jump points under the hood. Hybrids and EVs have a small 12-volt battery that powers the startup system; check the manual before jumping one, and never touch the high-voltage system.
Do not jump a battery that is cracked, leaking, bulging or frozen. If a jump works but the car dies again soon, the battery may not be holding a charge or the alternator may not be charging it. A mechanic can test both.
When to stop trying
Cranking over and over can drain the battery and overheat the starter. If a few tries do not work, give it a rest and call for help rather than keep going.
Stop immediately and move away from the vehicle if you smell raw fuel, see smoke, or hear a grinding or loud mechanical noise. Do not attempt fuel system repairs yourself. If there is a fire risk, get everyone clear and call emergency services.
Common causes a mechanic will check
A mobile mechanic can test the battery, charging system and starter circuit on the spot and scan for trouble codes. Common findings include:
- A battery that no longer holds a charge
- Corroded or loose battery cables and ground connections
- A failing starter motor or starter relay
- An alternator that is not charging the battery
- A faulty ignition switch, neutral safety switch or brake switch
- Fuel pump, fuel relay or fuel filter problems
- Crankshaft or camshaft position sensor faults
- Key, fob or anti-theft immobilizer problems
Getting a mobile mechanic to the car
A no-start is one of the best reasons to use a mobile mechanic, since the car may need a tow to reach a shop. When you describe the problem, include the year, make and model, what you hear when you try to start it, and whether any warning lights come on. Our guide on how to describe a car problem helps.
Through Trackara Find, you can send your request free, with photos, to mobile mechanics who cover your area. Learn more about car won't start service.