Signs you need trailer axle, hitch and brake repair
- Trailer brakes weak, grabbing, or not working at all
- Brake controller shows no trailer connected
- A hub that is much hotter than the others after a drive
- Grinding, squealing or wobble from a wheel
- Grease spattered on the inside of a wheel
- Uneven or fast tire wear on one side
- Trailer sits lower on one side or leans
- Lights or turn signals not working, or working only sometimes
- Coupler loose on the ball or hard to latch
- Broken or cracked springs, hangers or shackles
Do not tow a trailer with a hub that is smoking or much hotter than the others, a wheel that wobbles, or brakes that are not working: leave it parked and have it checked. Never work under a trailer supported only by a jack, and let the tech handle lifting and supporting a loaded trailer.
Common causes
Worn or dry wheel bearingsBearings need regular cleaning and repacking, and water gets in, especially on boat trailers. A failing bearing overheats and can seize or let the wheel come off.
Failed grease sealsA worn seal lets grease out and water in, which speeds up bearing failure and can soak the brake shoes.
Electric brake faultsWorn shoes, failed brake magnets, broken wiring and corroded connections cause weak or uneven braking.
Wiring and connector corrosionTrailer plugs, ground wires and splices corrode easily. A poor ground is behind many light and brake problems.
Worn suspension partsLeaf springs, equalizers, shackles and bushings wear and crack, causing lean, uneven load and tire wear.
Bent axleCurb strikes and overloading can bend an axle, which shows up as uneven tire wear even after new tires.
Surge brake problemsSurge brakes on many boat trailers can suffer from low or contaminated fluid, a sticking actuator or rusted components.
Worn coupler or hitchA worn coupler, wrong ball size or loose hitch parts can let the trailer rattle or come loose.
What gets done where it's parked, and what needs a shop
Usually done on site
- Bearing inspection, repack and replacement, including seals
- Electric brake shoe, magnet and assembly replacement
- Brake wiring, breakaway switch and battery checks
- Surge brake actuator and hydraulic brake service
- Trailer light and wiring repair, including the plug on the tow vehicle
- Leaf spring, equalizer, shackle and bushing replacement
- Coupler, safety chain and jack replacement
- Hitch receiver and brake controller installation and setup on the tow vehicle
May need a shop or lift
- Welding repairs to the frame, tongue or spring hangers
- Replacing bent axles on heavy or loaded trailers without safe lifting on site
- Axle alignment work
- Major rebuilds of horse or car hauler trailers that need a lift or indoor space
Every mechanic's setup is different. The one who accepts your request will tell you if your job needs a shop.
Before the mechanic arrives
- Park on level, firm ground with room to work around the wheels
- Unload the trailer if you can, and chock the wheels
- Have the tow vehicle available if lights or brakes need to be tested
- Note the trailer make, axle count and any labels on the axle or hubs
- Take photos of the tires, hubs, springs, coupler and the wiring plug
Photos of warning lights, leaks or damage help the mechanic bring the right parts. You can add up to five with your request.
Questions to ask when you get a quote
- Do my bearings need a repack, or do they need to be replaced?
- Are my brakes and magnets worn, or is it a wiring or controller problem?
- Can you check my brake controller and tow vehicle wiring too?
- Does my tire wear point to a bent axle or worn suspension?
- Is my coupler, ball and hitch rated and sized for this trailer?
- How often should this trailer have its bearings and brakes serviced?
Trackara never handles payment for the work. You agree the price with the mechanic before they start, and you pay them directly. How to read a repair quote.
Vehicles this applies to
Trailer axle, hitch and brake repair: questions and answers
Yes. Bearing repack and replacement, including new seals, is common mobile work. The tech lifts and supports the trailer safely, cleans and inspects the bearings and races, and replaces what is worn.
It can be a brake controller setting, a bad ground or wiring fault, a corroded connector, worn shoes or failed magnets. A tech will usually test from the tow vehicle plug back to each brake. Check your brake controller shows the trailer is connected before calling.
Yes. Most light problems come from corroded connectors or a poor ground, and they can be found and fixed on site. Have the tow vehicle there so the tech can test the whole circuit. See auto electrical repair for tow vehicle wiring.
No. A hub that is much hotter than the others often means a failing bearing or dragging brake, and a bearing can seize or let the wheel come off. Leave it parked and get it checked where it is.
Many can install receiver hitches, wiring and brake controllers on the tow vehicle, then set up the controller with the trailer. Send a free request with the truck and trailer details. For the rest of your trailer, see mobile trailer repair.